Last Men Standing

Do you think it's going to rain?

You hear folks saying "It's harder to get a good night's sleep as you get older", well let me tell you - motorcycle touring is surely the cure for insomnia!

It was lights out early last night and (with the exception of Don who was up and away to the office with the lark) a leisurely start to today.

A sunny morning would have been nice for Roy and Ken's final jaunt to Toronto and Oakville. Alas, t'was not to be.

But, hey, any day of motorcycling is better than a day in the office!

So, off they went, with a cheery wave, and dodging the raindrops.

Roy leading the charge

Ken riding shotgun

Au revoir...mes amis!

That's all she wrote.

Six minutes ahead of Schedule

Yes, yes, we know there's not supposed to be any schedule when you are on vacation, but we prefer to have one and that's how we know that we arrived back 6-minutes ahead of it.

I know it's in here somewhere...

Everyone is well and in high spirits but tired after a day spent mostly baking in our rain suits.

This was a utilitarian day - 513 km trek from Quebec City home.

We even managed to fit in a scenic drive along the Ottawa River Parkway - when we found the 417/Queensway was closed due to an accident.

A few more words will be forthcoming after a good night's sleep...stay tuned to this frequency!

Quebec City by Ferry, Foot & Funiculaire

Today is a "day of rest" at least as far as motorcycling goes.

Don, Roy, and I are off on the Ferry to explore Vieux Quebec, while Ken plans to enjoy a day of peace and quiet at the Motel.

We bravely went "cold turkey", leaving the bikes parked at the Motel and taking a cab to the Ferry. That turned out to be a really good decision as the entire area was in the throws of construction.


Levis-Quebec City Ferry

They say the Chateau Frontenac is the most photographed hotel in the world. It's easy to see why.

Two more pictures of the Chateau

First stop (less than 100m from the Ferry!) the Cochon Dingue where we dined al fresco and enjoyed very tasty food, at a good price.

Alas the rain began to fall just as we were ready to start exploring. But luckily, a couple of $3 ponchos saved the day...and we were off and running (well more of a slow walk really, but "on the move" at least).



Team Poncho - Roy, Fiona, Don

Dressed for success, we headed off to catch the Funiculaire.

Roy, taking rain gear more seriously today

Several iterations of the Funiculaire have raised goods, animals, and people up to the Heights of Abraham since 1879.

Today a trip costs $3...and it's well worth it as, in the words of my travelling companions, "this city is quite hilly".

Don estimating the cost of re-roofing the Chateau Frontenac

The views from the Heights are spectacular, both of the Chateau and the St. Lawrence river below.

Don estimates that the approximate cost of re-roofing the Chateau would be about $3,000 per 10' x10'.



Meanwhile, down on the St. Lawrence maintenance work was underway on the light ice breaker, Martha L. Black.

Canadian Coastguard's Martha L. Black

Back in front of the Chateau street performers were entertaining a crowd.

Fire eating unicyclist



Our final stop was at the Notre-Dame de Quebec Basilica-Cathedral, where we had a private (and extremely detailed) tour of the crypt which was added when the cathedral was rebuilt in 1923.

Most of the bishops, archbishops and cardinals of the Québec diocese are in the crypt as well as four governors of New France : Frontenac, Vaudreuil, Callières and Jonquière.

The crypt

Finally it was time to head back to the Ferry, and back to the Motel, for dinner with Ken.

The St. Lawrence may be quieter here than it is through the Seaway in eastern Ontario, but this view shows that the Ferry's are not the only water traffic.

The ocean-going Mississauga Express ploughing towards us

Thankfully she gave us a wide berth and headed on her way to the Atlantic.

Adieu Quebec!



Tomorrow we set off home to Ontario.

Once again, "a demain".



Saint-Anne-des-Monts to Lévis

Let's just say...the day started drier than it ended!

The harbour at Saint-Anne-des-Monts

It had rained heavily over night, but we were hopeful that the sky would clear and we would have a dry 450 km run through to Quebec City.

The church and adjoining nunnery are impressive

With only an hour available (6:30-7:30 am) to see a little of Saint-Anne-des-Monts, I set out on a quick sprint around town.

A plaque honours English born Sister Angèle's contribution to Health and Education in the town and surrounding communities.


Sister Angele was born in England

Wood-carving is celebrated throughout Saint-Anne.

Mermaid with seal

This particularly fine example is near the aquarium.

Don ready to depart the Motel Brunante

By 8:30 we were geared up and ready to hit the road again.

First stop, the Windfarm at Cap Chat where there are 75 functional windmills, and one visually impressive but non-functioning vertical axis windmill.

Éole

The vertical access Éole looks amazing, but Ken tells us that the design is flawed. The weight of the axis simply grinds the base bearing to pieces and, so far, nobody has come up with a solution, so the great Éole stands idle.







Lack of time, and a lack of willingness to part with $17 per person to get up close and personal with this "white elephant" leaves us with just this distance shot...but at least we had money left for coffee and a cookie in Matane.
Before we go, we (well Ken and I) take a final look around at the other windmills, while "the accidental tourists" remain focused on their bikes.

Don sits on his bike, Roy checks something important on his.

I know it's time to move on when the conversation turns to "The 5 best ways to disable your ABS"!

How many riding modes?

And yet the quest for culture continues. 

Next fly past (on Roy's watch!!!)... Le Grand Rassemblement (the Grand Gathering) at the Centre d'Art Marcel Gagnon in Sainte-Flavie.

So unusual, it is not to be missed

It really is one of those things that makes you think "Only in Canada, eh?"

"Unique au monde"...for sure

Next stop, lunch in Rimouski.

With sky's blackening around us, rain gear seems the obvious choice to Ken and I. Perhaps it's a naked R thing to dress for rain before rain actually falls?

Alas, we were only half way to Rivière-du-Loup when the heavens opened, and if you've been out that way you know there isn't much shelter along this stretch of highway.

By the time we saw and pulled in to a service station I was still dry, Ken was wet down to the waist, Don was wearing his Goretex suit which is waterproof when all vents are closed. Unfortunately they were not, so he too had "an upper body soaker".

And then there was Roy who had bet the farm on "no rain", and lost!

Thank goodness the rain let up while we were re-grouping at Tim's and the final 100km to Quebec City were ridden under warm, sunny skies.

A night at the Econolodge, a decent dinner and awesome Strawberry shortcake at the Normandin Restaurant next door and things are beginning to look much rosier.

Nothing a good night's sleep and a tumble dryer won't put to rights!





Percé Day

There's nothing better than a blue sky to start a motorcycling day off, and that's what we woke up to this morning.

Don, almost ready for the road

I was a bit slow off the mark this morning, on account of having found an open air Pop/Rock concert to attend last evening, in the park down by the Marina.

I'd been out on a "mission of mercy" to the pharmacy and happened on the concert.

I was the only one in the audience clutching Johnson's Baby Powder. Made me wish I'd sprung for a 5 cent grocery bag...but thankfully it was almost dark.

So, a quick - and very beautiful - 44 km sprint along the coast to Percé and we have our tickets for the boat trip around the rock, and Bonaventure Island, home to over 100,000 Gannets. Who knew?

Ken, Fiona, Roy, and Don

Great Tour

Naturally, we are there well ahead of time. This is a new concept for me, but I am adapting well.

Waiting for our boat to come in.

The boat trip was Roy's idea. Honestly I had not expected I'd be able to pry the gang off their bikes for a full 2-hrs, but it really has been the highlight of the trip so far.

The Photo Bombers

First the boat goes out and around the rock, which is amazing. It looks big from land, but from the water it is - as the young(er) folks say - "totally awesome".

Once on board we shamelessly snagged the best spot on the boat.

All those children have years to come back for another look!


The Percé Rock is Limestone, shale, topped with a surprising amount of hardy shrubbery.

The side you can only see from the sea

End view. Impressive...non?

And so, on to Bonaventure Island which is home to over 100,000 Gannets.

I thought it would be noisy, but it was strangely quiet.

Gannet...imagine this x 100,000

This picture is plucked from the web because none of the 100+ photos we took from the boat - of birds perched on ledges, or in flight - were in focus. 

Ansel Adams we ain't! 

Most of our tour group disembarked to hike the island, but we resisted the urge.

Ken flying the flag for BMW Ontario club

Back on land we headed north to the town of Gaspé, then on to Forillon National Park, where - almost 40-years to the day since it was opened by Pierre Elliott Trudeau - Ken bid Adieu to his special water bottle (and its holder!) as they both flew off the bike over his shoulder.

Last moments together...

The beach at Forillon is beautiful. Packed with driftwood and a few families enjoying the great outdoors.

The beach at Forillon

Our attention was also (briefly) caught by "Monique from Rimouski" in her 'barely there' string bikini!

Monique

From Forillon on to Cloridorme, where I enjoyed a walk on the beach, skipped a few stones, and collected a keepsake...and my companions discussed something to do with bikes...aaaaaaaaaagh!

What a beautiful view

While the entire Peninsula is beautiful the shore-clinging stretch from Cloridorme to Saint-Anne-des-Monts is arguably the most spectacular.

Guide books describe it in glowing terms.

The highway engineers provide an alternative take...

Their warning signs indicate a 50/50 chance of being hit on the head by falling rocks, or washed off the bike by a rogue wave.

Fortunately we passed by on a calm day when the earth was at rest on its axis.

And, as they say..."To the victor, the spoils"...

Planked Salmon at La Cie

Three hundred and twenty eight very memorable kilometers, all told.

Sainte-Flavie to Chandler via Matapedia

Got Gas...gotta go

Some people collect postcards, we collect gas receipts.

Don ready for another 350 km

Matapedia River Valley
The first section south from Ste Flavie is "so, so", but after a restorative coffee in Amqui things became a lot more interesting.

There's only one word for it...spectacular! Long sweeping turns revealing view after view of one of the world's foremost Salmon rivers.

Matapedia River

Roy led our troop through this 170 km ride south to Pointe-a-la-Croix.

Our fearless leader...in full battle dress

Lunch was at Subway, but even this provided a great view of the inter-provincial bridge running over to Campbellton, New Brunswick.

Don, Fiona, Roy and Ken - on a Mi'kmaq Indian Reserve

Barely 55 km further down the road, I pulled in to the Halte Municipale in Carleton-sur-Mer to plaintiff cries of "Why are we stopping?" (take me now Lord, so I don't have to re-cap the principle of sightseeing!).

Well it's a darn good job that we did, or we would not have bumped in to "Dave from Mississauga", who asked if we are members of any clubs and proudly announced that he is "a member of the BMW Club of Ontario".

Imagine our surprise! Although Dave isn't a regular participant he has met lots of members on the road - including Bob, Cliff, Ron & Linda, Roland & Barb, Hans & Carol...and...wait for it...Dominique.

It was nice to meet you Dave

 A moment of reflection
Even our intrepid band value the opportunity to reflect from time-to-time, and Ken found the perfect spot for that at Boulangerie Artisinale La Petrie in Bonaventure.

Don gave their Espresso "two thumbs up" and declared it "worth the trip", not to mention the pastries.

Pastries that made the eyes boggle

This was a fun stop for all...

Blending in in Bonaventure

The last leg
From Bonaventure, with light traffic, we savoured the short 88 km hop to our digs at the Motel Chandler in...you've guessed it...Chandler. The entire route hugs the edge of the Baie de Chaleur (warmest sea water on Canada's Atlantic coast).

A typical view from Rte 132 on the way to Chandler

Timing of a champion
Amazingly, we arrived at the Motel spot on 5.06 pm...precisely as predicted by Furkot!

Not bad for having covered 385 km, with multiple stops!

Rock on
Tomorrow we head for Percé, and the famous rock. Possibly a boat ride if we can get ourselves organized...